English 版 (精华区)
发信人: Christy (绿叶~~捣鼓六仙捣毁仙), 信区: English
标 题: A Piece everyday
发信站: 哈工大紫丁香 (2002年07月22日18:15:24 星期一), 站内信件
The taking of Stilton Island
After the fuss over Gibraltar and last week's Parsley Island debacle, it's t
ime the Spanish were taught a lesson. So, dressed as Sir Walter Raleigh, and
armed with a union flag and supplies from Harrods, Stephen Moss set off by
pedalo from an Ibizan beach to claim the island in the bay
Monday July 22, 2002
The Guardian
The invasion was planned for first light, but the Spaniards may have got win
d of it. Our luggage - I am travelling with a courageous photographer - had
mysteriously disappeared en route to Ibiza and was thought to be in Barcelon
a. It contained my inspirational Walter Raleigh outfit, a large union flag,
a stout pair of boots and two boules. All we had left for the attack was the
Walter Raleigh plumed hat, a megaphone, a tin of Harrods treacle biscuits,
a stilton cheese, a diecast model of a Grenadier guard and a pot of thick-cu
t marmalade. This was a sticky situation.
Our démarche had been hatched in response to Spanish hypocrisy: how can it
go on harassing Gibraltar when it refuses even to discuss the status of Ceut
a and Melilla, its enclaves in Morocco? Its storming of Parsley Island, a fe
w hundred metres off the Moroccan coast, was the last straw. It was time to
give the Spanish a taste of their own medicine.
Half a day's meticulous planning had gone into the attack. The Guardian's fa
shion editor remembered seeing an uninhabited island about 400m off Playa d'
en Bossa, a beach on the eastern coast of Ibiza. This was to be our target:
Spanish for eight centuries, soon to be British. Raleigh, Drake, Moss - the
names resonate, one golden Elizabethan age speaking unto another. My breast,
even without the Walter Raleigh outfit, was swelling with pride.
We reach Ibiza airport (minus vital luggage) at midnight, and the woman on t
he information desk tells us about the island. Isla de las Ratas in Spanish,
Illa de ses Rates in Catalan, Island of the Mice. She suspects nothing, des
pite the Walter Raleigh hat and the megaphone. The Island of the Mice will s
oon be ours.
But not that soon. At daybreak, there is still no sign of the luggage, which
is now expected in the evening. The symbolic importance of the Raleigh outf
it is such that we must delay. We recce the beach instead, which by 11 is al
ready full of topless women turning lobster red.
The Island of the Mice is at the northern end of the beach. My heart leaps w
hen I see it. But how do we reach it? There are children playing in the sea
on inflatable alligators. Would they carry the weight of the boules, cameras
and boots? It seems unlikely. There are several upturned rowing boats on th
e beach, but stealing one would be risky. We settle on a pedalo, available f
or 15 euros an hour.
The problem is that we want one for the duration of the mission. This is an
occupation, not a visit. The man who looks after the pedaloes speaks no Engl
ish, but a Frenchman called Renard translates for us. After half an hour of
haggling, we have secured unlimited use of the pedalo for 250 euros plus my
passport (recoverable, I hope). We tell them we want to stay on the island o
vernight to photograph the sunrise - Martin (hereafter called M) is compilin
g a book called Sunrises of the World - they believe us.
M goes back to see whether the Raleigh outfit has arrived from Barcelona. I
face an arduous afternoon of swimming, sunbathing, pizza-eating and beer-dri
nking in 90-degree heat. I buy shorts and flip-flops, have my hair cut short
and get a scorpion tattooed on my shoulder to blend in with all the other B
ritish men on the beach. I also buy a butterfly net, so we can use the bambo
o stick as a flagpole.
M arrives with the luggage at 9pm. This has allowed too much time for San Mi
guel drinking for the security of the expedition. The security of the pedalo
also gives cause for concern, since it is carrying two boules, a camera bag
, a holdall, a shoulder bag, a megaphone, a case of San Miguel, a stilton ch
eese, a bottle of water, several pounds of tomatoes, a large packet of salam
i, a tin of treacle biscuits, a union flag (with flagpole) and a diecast mod
el of a Grenadier guard. We set off at 9.35 in fast-fading light and pedal f
uriously, ignoring the fact that the pedalo is listing badly to port (my sid
e). This may be the first ever invasion undertaken by pedalo, though there i
s evidence that the Romans used a primitive version against Carthage in the
second Punic war.
We have to follow a route mapped out by buoys; the distance to the island is
about 1,000m. What begins as a gentle swell increases as we get further out
, and the pedalo rocks back and forth alarmingly. But it is too late to turn
back. The die is cast, and not just for the Grenadier guard.
We reach the island at 9.58 (I log the moment for future historians). It is
dark by now and we have to steer round to the south of the island, avoiding
rocks and dense seaweed, to find a place to land. We find a cove and guide t
he pedalo gently in, then pull it up on the beach and tie it to a rock. We s
tumble up a cliff, taking the baggage with us. I'm scared of heights, and so
only carry the megaphone; M carries everything else. I tell him he will get
at least a CBE; I have my eye on a knighthood.
There is no one about, not even a mouse, and we hoist the flag and celebrate
with beer, salami, tomatoes, cheese and treacle biscuits. The United Kingdo
m has a new chunk of territory; Spain has a bloody nose; and I have a headac
he caused by the beer and the furious rocking of the pedalo. It is time to s
leep, secure on this fresh patch of British soil.
It is a clear night, though colder than we expected. There is a three-quarte
r moon, a richly starry sky and a lovely stillness, broken only by the chart
er flights coming in low over our heads every 10 minutes and the pounding te
chno music from the Bora Bora club across the bay. By 4am all is quiet, but
there is now a dampness in the air and every so often we have to walk around
to prevent hypothermia.
We sleep fitfully until dawn breaks soon after 6, waking to find large numbe
rs of ants in the remnants of the salami. The lizards, which rise with the s
un, prefer the treacle biscuits. Daylight gives us our first chance to explo
re the island in detail. It is bigger than we had thought - about 150m long
and 90m wide. This is no mere crag in the sea, but a strategically significa
nt land mass. Suddenly a peerage seems possible.
The island has one sheer cliff face, jutting out to sea, but the rest is gen
tly sloping and covered in scree. There is some scrubby gorse and a few wild
flowers. We had been wondering what to call the newly annexed island: Eliza
beth (too many of those already); Blair (absolutely not); Rusbridger (it wou
ld be an honour, sir); Rosemary, Tarragon, Turmeric, Thyme (a nicely topical
touch)? But then it hits us - actually, the smell hits us first. Stilton -
the mice would be replaced by a quintessential British cheese.
I call the Foreign Office in London to tell them the joyous news - that Brit
ain has a new dependency. It is 7.30 on a Saturday morning and the sleepy du
ty officer, far from being elated, sounds rather bemused. "You couldn't call
back on Monday, could you?" she says. Is this the stuff of which empires ar
e made?
She puts me through to a press officer, who refuses to give me any guidance.
"I don't think there's a Foreign Office line on this," he says, stifling wh
at sounds suspiciously like a laugh. "Look, it's a bit early - could you try
after 10am?" This is all very depressing. Would Raleigh have captured Virgi
nia, or Drake seen off the Armada and been British crown green bowls champio
n, if they had insisted on having a lie-in at weekends?
A couple of hours later I try again. This time the Foreign Office has its li
ne worked out. "I'm afraid you're about a hundred years too late," says a jo
vial spokeswoman. "We are more into sharing rocks these days than owning the
m. You're out of fashion." (I'm not sure she would have said that if she cou
ld have seen me in my green pantaloons, doublet and plumed hat.)
"So if the Spanish were willing to share the island, would you be interested
?" I ask. "Quite possibly," she says. "It would be a matter for discussion b
etween the foreign ministers." "What's the island called?" she asks. "Stilto
n," I reply proudly. "As in cheese."
"Any chance of assistance in defending the island?" I ask her. "Nothing to d
o with us," she says. "That's the MoD." "But you could have a word in their
ear," I suggest. "What about that destroyer that was stuck on rocks? That mu
st be free by now and the captain would welcome the chance to redeem himself
." "Sorry, you'll have to speak to the MoD yourself," she says. And she is g
one, probably to a fawning ambassadorship.
I get through to a gruff-sounding official at the MoD, who has none of the c
harm of his FO counterparts. "If you want to declare the island British sove
reign territory, that's up to you," he says. "But we need your help to defen
d it," I bleat. "We've only got two boules, a half-eaten stilton cheese, a j
ar of marmalade and a diecast model of a Grenadier guard. A couple of Tornad
os would make all the difference." "We can't do anything without Foreign Off
ice say-so," he explains. "Sorry, it's a political decision."
Annexation is a lonely business. It also crosses my mind that Raleigh was ev
entually executed. This may, though, have been a merciful release: sitting i
n the midday sun in a sweaty doublet and thick pantaloons is a nightmare. Bu
t I must press on: perhaps Spain will accept an accommodation, the diplomati
c track suggested by the Foreign Office.
I call the office of diplomatic information, but no one there speaks English
(how convenient!). I phone the civil guard in Ibiza to open talks, but no o
ne there speaks English either. I can't even make it clear to them that Brit
ain has established a strategically important base 400m off the coast of Ibi
za, almost opposite the Cockney Rebel pub. The interior ministry, defence mi
nistry and central police department all appear to have knocked off for the
weekend. Spain is ripe for the taking: an Anglo-Moroccan expeditionary force
could be in Madrid by tomorrow if the Foreign Office and MoD would buck the
ir ideas up.
I am just pondering my next move when I hear a shriek. M, who has been colle
cting plant samples, has tripped and gashed his hand on a rock. An all too c
ommon casualty of war, I tell him. But I suppose the wound must be treated.
We gather the equipment, ditch the stilton (which by now can be smelt over m
ost of the eponymous island), and prepare to refloat the landing craft. But
not before we leave behind our secret weapon: Gordon the Grenadier.
We encase Gordon in a small fortress built of stones, so that only the top o
f his bearskin is showing, and beside him, hidden beneath a rock, leave the
following note: "Here stands Gordon the Grenadier, protecting Her Majesty Qu
een Elizabeth's sovereign territory of Stilton Island, taken from the Spanis
h by force of arms on July 20 2002. God bless Queen Elizabeth."
Gordon is unlikely ever to be disinterred and, as far as we are concerned, w
hile he remains on Stilton Island it is rightfully British. We have a new te
rritory in the Mediterranean, to set alongside Gib, and Spain has a new dipl
omatic headache. Your move, amigos. No doubt Peter Hain will be on the blowe
r later today to discuss possible quid (or even euro) pro quos on joint sove
reignty.
--
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